Cathedral columns of golden kelp rising from granite boulders, broadnose sevengill cowsharks up to three metres cruising the…Cathedral columns of golden kelp rising from granite boulders, broadnose sevengill cowsharks up to three metres cruising the alleys between them, Cape fur seals that will chase your fins, octopus, and pyjama sharks asleep under the ledges. This is the seaforest of My Octopus Teacher, and the free-diving tradition that produced that film has done more for South African marine protection than any campaign. The kelp itself only grows in the cold Benguela upwelling, which is why the Atlantic side of the Cape is freezing and full of life. Anchorage: Simon's Town and Fish Hoek in False Bay; the bay is workable in the south-easter that shuts the Atlantic side. Hazards: Cold water, kelp entanglement, and great white sharks are part of this ecosystem, dive with local operators who read the conditions. Plus