Approaching San Marco from the water at dawn, with mist on the lagoon, the Doge's Palace and Santa Maria della Salute going…Approaching San Marco from the water at dawn, with mist on the lagoon, the Doge's Palace and Santa Maria della Salute going pink, and no one on the water but fishing boats. Then the northern lagoon, Burano's coloured houses, Torcello's 7th-century basilica, and abandoned quarantine islands. Founded by refugees fleeing Attila into the marshes in the 5th century and built on millions of alder piles driven into the mud. It ruled a maritime empire for a thousand years. The MOSE flood barriers, operational since 2020, now close the lagoon against acqua alta, the city is in a permanent argument with its own water. Anchorage: Berths rather than anchoring; the northern lagoon around Burano and Torcello is quieter. Hazards: Stay in marked channels, the lagoon is shallow mud with sandbanks everywhere. Vaporetto traffic is relentless. Plus