A working fishing village with the rainforest coming down to the water, Tobago's Main Ridge is the oldest legally protected…A working fishing village with the rainforest coming down to the water, Tobago's Main Ridge is the oldest legally protected forest reserve in the western hemisphere, and, offshore, the nutrient-rich Guyana current that feeds Speyside's brain corals, among the largest in the world. Tobago changed hands more than thirty times between European powers, more than any other Caribbean island. Its Main Ridge Forest Reserve was protected in 1776, on the argument that the forest made the rain, which turned out to be right. Anchorage: A deep horseshoe under steep green hills at Tobago's north-east end, one of the best-sheltered bays in the southern Caribbean, with moorings in the north-east corner and a fishing fleet working the rest. Hazards: The anchorage is deep and space is limited because much of the bay is a fishing priority area. The Guyana current runs hard off the headlands. Meer