A village of stone houses with almost no cars, olive terraces going back to scrub, and a horizon of Ionian islands, Ithaca…A village of stone houses with almost no cars, olive terraces going back to scrub, and a horizon of Ionian islands, Ithaca, Kalamos, Meganisi, in every direction from the ridge. Kastos and Kalamos emptied out through the 20th century as people left for Athens and Australia; both are slowly refilling with summer traffic. Port Leone on Kalamos opposite was abandoned after the 1953 earthquake took its water supply and stands empty today. Anchorage: A tiny port on a long thin island with barely any road, a windmill above the quay and two or three tavernas. Greek sailing writing sends people here precisely because the crowds go elsewhere. Hazards: Small quay with limited space in season; the anchor holding is patchy in weed. Meer