Water so clear the boat's shadow is the only thing marking the bottom, a bay with one building in it, goats on the ridge, and…Water so clear the boat's shadow is the only thing marking the bottom, a bay with one building in it, goats on the ridge, and, at night, no lights anywhere except Kalamos across the water. Atokos has been uninhabited within living memory, grazed rather than farmed. The Inner Ionian islets, Atokos, Kastos, Kalamos, Arkoudi, are the quiet centre of a busy cruising ground, because none of them has a road worth having. Anchorage: A white pebble bay on an uninhabited island with one abandoned stone house above it and a chapel on the ridge. The classic Ionian overnight for people who would rather not be in a harbour. Hazards: Deep until close in, weed patches that foul an anchor, and the afternoon breeze that gets into the bay. Meer