A Brief Guide to Exploring Nova Scotia by Sea

Summer's coming — yes, already — and if you, like many of us, are looking to take your cruising or your fishing out of the heat waves already being predicted for this summer down around the Caribbean, there's at least one excellent alternative to the well-trod paths of New England's old money: with a refreshing mix of undeveloped beauty and the unique energy of Halifax, Nova Scotia is one of this year's best picks.

THE CITY

Halifax is an underrated gem.

The province's capital, Halifax, is a vibrant mix of historic charm and modern allure. History buffs will be fascinated by the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, a massive compound largely preserved in its mid-1800s style, stocked with artifacts and staffed by living-history guides.

Not far away you'll find the Halifax Public Gardens— one of North America's oldest formal gardens, and an unmissable, beautifully-landscaped oasis of tranquility.

The waterfront district and its boardwalk are both good bets for overnight mooring and fun in and of themselves. Docking at the Halifax Waterfront Marina will put you within a few steps of a wealth of shops, restaurants, galleries, and parks — not to mention the fascinating Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, a must-see for any avid boater. For nearby eateries with well-deserved local fans, try The Bicycle Thief, Black Sheep, and Water Polo.

With the waterfront district pressed up against downtown, fans of classic Victorian architecture will have plenty of eye candy while heading between museums, restaurants, or galleries.

THE COAST

romantic sights and old-world beauty.

All of Nova Scotia's coast is stunning, but one of the classic sights to see is Peggy's Cove — and its adjacent lighthouse, pictured at the top of this article — which is southeast of Halifax, around the lovely-on-its-own Terence Bay Provincial Wilderness Area by boat (or a little under an hour by car). The downside of a classic is, of course, that everyone else knows about it, too — but there are plenty of hidden (or at least less obvious) gems.

One of the best advantages to owning your own yacht is the ability to give yourself wildlife tours — for as long as you want. The Bay of Fundy, on Nova Scotia's west coast, is a notorious humpback whale-spotting zone from June to October. Other whales found in the bay include the minke, fin, and massive North Atlantic right whales. Head up alongside Digby Neck for bonus seal-spotting and a view of the famous and picturesque Boar's Head Lighthouse.

There's more: picturesque Lunenburg, a coastal favorite, has plenty of accommodation for large yachts, and the surrounding waters host harbour seals, dolphins, and more chances to see whales a little farther out.

To the south, take in some pristine sailing around Port Mouton Island and dock at Central Port Mouton, and you'll find the stunning and expansive white sands of Carter's Beach.

THE PARKS

Cape Breton isn't famous for nothing.

On the way up to one of Canada's most famed natural treasures, Cape Breton Highlands National Park, is a lesser-known beauty to the southeast: Cape Dauphin, and just off its shores, the Ciboux, Hertford, and Bird Islands. The dramatic views of Ciboux Lighthouse standing at the north end of a steep high green-topped cliff aren't the only draw: all three islands are an official seabird sanctuary, where puffins make their nests in the cliffsides, and other species include two types of cormorants, razorbills, black guillemots, and at times bald eagles, with seals sunning themselves on the lower rocks.

Given that it is a sanctuary, the easiest way to get close to the cliffs is to take one of the approved tours that depart from on and around Cape Dauphin. Sydney and North Sydney, just to the southeast, are popular home-bases for exploring the local parks and preserves, and good choices for yachtsmen looking for moorings. Private tours of Cape Breton, including safari-style off-road trips for the adventurous, can also be booked from Sydney.

Back down in southern Nova Scotia, not far south of Halifax, dock in the town of Sambro — or just sail a little south of there — to check out the much-loved Crystal Crescent Beach Provincial Park.

On the southwest coast, heading up the Annapolis River will bring you to Annapolis Royal, which provides a floating wharf for yachtsmen from April through summer, and contains the beautiful Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens and the Port-Royal Historic Site, a wall-crafted living history installation.

Whatever you do, and whatever route you decide to take, make sure you bring a jacket: even in the summer, the winds around Nova Scotia can be chilly. ⛵︎